Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Oh how I love Peru!

Hello my little blog followers!

My latest adventure was an absolutely amazing two weeks travelling through Peru. I honestly can not sell it enough. Peru is incredible, the people are brilliant, the country is beautiful and don't even get me started on the food. Peruvians know what they are doing in the kitchen!

I flew into Lima (25 hour flight from London) and stayed in a little guest house called "The lighthouse" in Miraflores, which is the centre of Lima and well known for being the safest suburb for tourists to stay in. My guesthouse was very sweet, it's family run and breakfast feels like you are staying with the family as a visitor, you just sit with the other guests at a little 6 seated dining table, while being fussed over in spanish. I stayed there for two nights and didn't achieve very much. I just wanted to have a couple of chilled out days and mainly walked along the coast and through the city. Lima is not a very pretty city and you don't get the safest vibe from the buildings. Most of which are run down/falling apart and everything is covered in barbed wire and/or prison bars. There is however some incredible street art hidden through out the city. There is a huge surfing culture in Lima too, which I had never really thought about. The walk along the cliffs is quite nice, it is very lush and green and well maintained. Lima is covered in a fairly constant cover of cloud for about eight months of the year. One of the locals said that it is called the sad city. I must admit, it was pretty glum both times I was there. So I probably wont rush back to Lima, Cusco however, I'd go back tomorrow!

I flew down to sunny Cusco and immediately felt the effects of altitude! I went to Peru without doing a whole lot of research, which wasn't the best idea I've ever had. I honestly didn't think altitude was that much of a big deal. As soon as I stepped off the plane though I felt weird. I was dizzy, short of breath, headachy and my legs felt like jelly. It wasn't too bad, some people get hospitalised from altitude sickness, I was ok though. I drank loads of coca tea, which is what the locals recommend. Coca tea is tea made out of the leaves from the plant cocaine is from. It just tastes like green tea, but it felt a bit naughty drinking it (living life on the edge, I know!). 

I did a short contiki tour while I was visiting. I usually just do my own thing when I travel, but I really wanted to not have to think too much, have my decisions already decided and the added bonus of instant friends! I joined an already existing group that had been travelling for about a week already. Everybody was super lovely and the group got along really well. We did a city tour the first morning and checked out a few churches and the markets. Then we all headed out for lunch to try the peruvian delicacy, guinea pig. Now, I'm not sure why someone looked at a guinea pig and thought "gee, I bet that tastes pretty good, lets deep fry it", but they did, and it caught on. I went to Peru with the intention of tasting their local delicacy, but then they bought it out to the table. With it's head/teeth/eyes all still in place. It looked like someone had run over my childhood pet and then dropped it in a deep fryer, there was no way I could even taste it. Other people said it tasted like chicken or rabbit. I'll take their word for it.
It was free time in the afternoon and I met up with Jany. I met her on my flight from Lima to Cusco, she is a local and an absolute angel! She took me to a great little cafe and then showed me around a bit. Locals are the best people to make friends with.
Everyone in our group went out that night, but I didn't stay out very long. I was really struggling with the altitude. 

The next morning we went up to one of the mountains that surround Cusco, to get a special blessing from two of the locals. It was really nice, and I'm so glad we got to do it. I like having that feeling of being extra protected while I'm traveling. So between my saint christopher necklace and my blessed peruvian bracelet, I should be covered!
We drove to Ollantaytambo (try saying that fast, three times in a row) that day, stopping off in Pisac to see/climb some ancient ruins. The views were absolutely breath taking and there is no way any camera could ever do it justice. The Andes are just incredible. Once we got to our destination we climbed up more ruins... ok, well I didn't. I'd had enough of being out of breath. So I went and chatted to some locals who spoke a bit of English in the markets. Did I mention my Spanish is still very Russian? Why oh why I had spanish lessons in Russia, I will never know! 

The next day, most of the group set of for the Inka trail. Me being super organised though, booked the tour too late, and the Inka trail was already full. I don't mind, now I have the perfect excuse to go back to Peru. I really want to hike that trail. We stayed in Ollantayambo until 3pm, I spent the morning walking along the back streets away from were the tourists are and had the most amazing time. I ended up playing football (soccer) with some kids and their family came out to say hello and offered me something to eat. I politely declined though, as I had no idea what it might have once been when it was alive. 
That afternoon we caught the train to the base of Machu Picchu (Pueblo).

Another early morning start and we were all on our way up the mountain to explore Machu Picchu. Some people on my tour said that the bus ride was really scary, I didn't even register that at all. I have been on much scarier bus rides. At least this bus had sides on it!
I really don't have the words to describe just how beautiful Machu Picchu is. If you have ever even contemplated going and it's something you would like to see, just do it! It is breathtaking (literally, at times). We were so lucky with the weather, it was hot and sunny and early in the morning it was misty and cloudy, which was just perfect. It is so green, and the surrounding mountains and valleys are so spectacular. I want everyone to go and see it and experience this amazing place for themselves. Not to mention just how incredible the actual ruins are. Our guide took us around and showed us what is left and what has been restored of the temples and homes. There are some pretty cute llamas walking around too. They are very used to people as well, if they want to get to a patch of grass and you are in their way, they basically just walk over you to get it. No fear of people at all. We also saw my very first chinchilla, it looks like a mix between a rabbit and a possum. They are really cute, plus I love saying the word chinchilla.
I could go on and on about Machu Picchu, but I haven't even started on what the Amazon was like yet. So just go explore the Andes and find out for yourself!
We were all in the party mood that night, and after a sing-a-long on the bus trip back to Cusco, we put on our salsa shoes and partied the night away! 

We spent one more day in Cusco before flying down to Puerto Maldonado, the main "city" in the Amazon of Peru. 
After a flight, a bus trip and a boat ride, we arrived at our gorgeous jungle lodge. It was all open and smack bang in the middle of the forest. We slept under mosquito nets and slept to the sound of the jungle (it was the best sleep I had the whole time I was in Peru). When we arrived we split into groups and went for a walk to the canopy tower. This tower was terrifying! It was 37meters high and the higher you got the more it swayed. If you had seen the tiny cables holding it up you would have been scared too. Generally I'm not scared of heights, but I am very scared of wobbly heights. It was worth being scared though, once at the top we had an amazing view of the sunset over the seemingly endless canopy of jungle. You could see macaws and a sloth in the distance and hear all sorts of birds, insects and monkeys. It was brilliant! 
The next morning we were up before the sun and we awoke to the most unusual sound. Hearing strange sounds, that are close, in the dark, in the middle of nowhere can make your morning a little uneasy. It turns out that the sound was just howler monkeys, but when I first heard them I was thinking "what sound does a Puma make?" 
We went fishing for Piranha's, my expert fishing skills failed me that morning, but luckily a few others caught some, so I was able to see what they looked like. Not nearly the flesh eating monsters my imagination/hollywood had made them out to be. I still wouldn't want a bite from one though! We saw loads of monkeys and birds and the ants that carry the little bits of really green leaves that you always see on the discovery channel. We also saw Capybara, which look like wombat sized guinea pigs (they don't get eaten though).
Once we had done our group tour, I went kayaking on the river. It was amazing! It's just coming to the end of the dry season now, so the river was quite low in places. I almost got stuck in the sand and was starting to reside to the fact that I was going to have to live in the kayak for the rest of my life, as there was no way I was stepping foot into the caiman (alligator) infested waters, but then a boat came along and made some waves so I got free. I saw more wildlife along the river, including a huge snake going out of the water onto the bank (more reason to not step out of the kayak). 
While I waited for our time at the lodge to be up, I swayed in the hammock and saw a butterfly in every colour, with the exception of maybe green. I love the Amazon and can't wait to go back and visit.

My last five days in Peru were mainly spent salsa dancing and drinking Pisco sours.
I had the most fantastic time, and if I've not made it obvious enough, Peru is without any doubt, one of my favourite countries!
Please go and visit, you won't have a single regret!

A few tips though:
They free pour alcohol in Peru... they are very generous.
Altitude gets you drunker faster, this is good, but can also be bad. Be careful!
Learn a few spanish words, lots of people speak English but it makes a difference if people see that you are trying to learn their language (in any country).
If you salsa like a disabled duck (like me) still dance and have a super fab time, cause no one really cares if you know how to dance or not.
Try the food, the exception being, things that look like deep fried pets.

Hope you enjoyed this edition of my blog as much as I did having the adventure!
Missing everyone at home, 
all my love
xxxx       

        

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